I write this week’s blog on the road from San Marino, where Gigi and I have been on international tennis duty! I hope I have managed to convey enough ‘scenery’ in a tale so different from normal hum-drum French life that you will not miss the appropriate imagery too much in the latter part of the story. It may be that you will not wish for imagery anyway, as you will find out! This is not a piece of fiction, I hasten to add, but I hope you take as much away from it as we did.
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There is an old man in a village that we bicycle through occasionally who we have got quite fond of. It’s a typical French thing, I think, that we can acquaint a place with a person, whether it be someone in a shop, or perhaps someone who is always in their potager alongside one’s route. I can think too of another village where a man sells squash from a wheelbarrow in autumn, for example, and then another where it seems a farmer is always driving down the main road in his old 423 Massey Ferguson – a red one, of course. All of these happenings are but postcards of French life, but ones we remember and can associate with.
It was Millie who noticed this particular gentleman, perhaps a year ago; a small man with a weathered face who was sitting on his doorstep as we wheeled by, and who waved happily at us with a small grin as we then sped away. I clearly must have been looking the other way for it was not until the next time we went by, perhaps a month later,. and then stopped for a breather, that Millie said, “He was there again, what a sweet old man,” and when I asked for an explanation, I learnt of his previous appearance.
“Oh,” I mundanely replied, “I didn’t see him,” and I hadn’t, yet again.
But I did the next time, and then again, but as summer passed into autumn, his appearances became somewhat sporadic as the colder weather approached until finally we would cycle through, bundled up against the weather, and he was no longer there at all. Winter passed, and we no longer cycled through that particular village and I wondered absently if he would be there when spring came around.
He was. May was our first outing along that route, and our old familiar friend was there at a window as we slowly went past, and there was a wave and then a smile, a gesture that made me grin back in return. I had a glimpse into another life through the window, past the wrinkled face with alert eyes, into a dark room with serious furniture and a chequered tablecloth on a small table. I wanted to know more, and soon, unexpectedly, the opportunity arose. A friend bought a house in the same village, and we had a more definitive reason to go there, one which did not necessarily involve bicycles and we started to explore the hamlet better. A neighbour of our friend told us our old man’s name and as soon as we went past his door, we were able to stop and introduce ourselves, something I thought would be polite to do so we would no longer be on just ‘nodding’ terms.
We had found out his name was Louis, and our first brief exchange of information and greeting was polite and to the point, but then we became more familiar and our conversations started to go beyond the two words of “Bonjour, Louis!” as we pedalled past. We would pause for a minute, talk about the weather, mutter something about the seasonal produce and then perhaps add to our explanation of how our friend, who spoke little French, had come to buy a house in Louis’ village. It always amused us, in our shorts and t-shirts, how Louis could be muffled up against the sunshine, and it was an unspoken rule that we stopped for never too long as he might have something else to do, sitting there on his carefully swept doorstep – a large 16” high sandstone block that eased the way on a sloping hill for anyone entering the house.
And then, two weeks ago, I had the idea to take some cucumbers from our potager to him, since not only were our cucumbers breeding faster than we could consume them, but it had become obvious that Louis either did not have a potager, or perhaps no longer had the capacity to work it. Armed with our offerings, Millie, Gigi and I set off one Sunday afternoon and soon found Louis outside his house, talking to a neighbour. We bided our time, and when the conversation ended and he turned to us, Gigi shyly offered him our two cucumbers. Now, whether he needed them or not, or whether he even ate cucumber, Louis was a gentleman and he thanked us long and hard, his face beaming with gratitude. And then, with a step he turned towards his door and beckoned us to come in, out of the sun, and have a glass of water.
We gently parked our bikes against his wall, and one by one, trooped in through the dark doorway into his front room, which immediately became apparent was a kitchen, parlour and sitting room, all in one. Blinking to accustom myself to the darkness, I immediately recognised the plastic red and white tablecloth I’d once glimpsed through the window from the seat of my bike, and then I became aware of weathered plastic linoleum on the kitchen units, a huge dark Gothic sideboard against one wall, and then a dresser against another. There were photos, many of a smiling woman in a wheelchair, a tiny stove and oven tucked into a corner, and a fridge in another. The room was spotlessly clean, but busy with books, knick-knacks, cooking utensils and other miscellanea – this was a room that was lived in, where decades of life had been played out and where memories lingered in every nook and cranny. A smell of household cleaners and drying laundry hung in the air, redolent with the familiar aroma of cooked onions and garlic.
As Louis stooped to his fridge, I glanced at Gigi and Millie and saw they were quietly gazing around them, and I instinctively knew Millie was recognising pieces of the scene as fragments of a story already read, while Gigi was probably bubbling with curiosity at a room she would never have visited otherwise. Louis leant up from the fridge with an old orange-juice bottle that was full with cold water, and he put it on the table with three glasses. He told us all to sit down, and then produced a bowl which he proceeded to fill with cheese straws from a huge bag in a cupboard. It became clear this was a routine he must enact several times each day, as I suspect visitors to his domain pass by with regularity. And then he sat down and looked at us with steady eyes, and we told him our story, where we lived and what we were doing in France – Gigi and Millie made most of the small talk, as I was still struggling to understand Louis’ thick country accent.
As we sat there, with sunlight picking out motes of dust as they swirled in the doorway, I realised I was in a situation that made me very content; this was traditional country hospitality, but of a typically French sort, and had the hour been different I knew there was a pastis bottle somewhere that might have been produced, and our chairs might have felt the weight of farmers and artisans. Even as I though that, there was a shadow in the doorway and Didier, the neighbour of our friend with the house in the village, appeared with a lurch over the step.
“Ah, you have found an English family,” he joked at Louis while winking at the girls and I, and there was a babble of colloquial French that I had no chance of following. Louis then scraped back his chair and Didier sat down next to me; another glass then appeared on the table, quickly followed by the exact bottle of pastis I had only just been thinking about!
Ten minutes passed, and we learnt that Louis was the oldest man in the village, le doyen as Didier called him, and he had lived his entire life in the small house, born in a room upstairs some 89 years previously. Gigi and Millie’s eyes grew wide at this, and their hands sat quietly in their laps as they contemplated a life spent in one place. We then found out the smiling woman in the wheelchair was Louis’s wife, who had died some years previously. There were platitudes from the children and I at this, which Louis then dismissed with tales of how he had many friends and family too keep him company and look after him. He added he was very happy with his lot, and filled our water glasses again, and we all thanked him once more.
It was then, as Gigi’s hand hovered over the bowl of cheese straws, and I was thinking what to cook for supper, and as Millie (as she later told me) was wondering if she would ever be able to paint an old room such as this, that something quite extraordinary happened, something that was to make the girls and I think very hard for several days about life, our existence and both the past and present. Even today, I still wonder.
It started with a question, from Louis to Gigi. “Tell me, young girl, how old are you?”
Gig had dutifully replied, “Eleven years old, nearly twelve,” she had replied with a shy grin.
“Are you afraid of death, little one?” Louis had extraordinarily replied.
Gig took several seconds to wonder at the question, and then said, “Perhaps, but not yet,” and her answer filled me with pride, for it was a wise one.
Louis turned to look at a photo of his wife, and then looking back at Gigi, he uttered, ”I was half your age when I first encountered death. I saw a man die in front of me,” and he sat back with a thump.
Agog, I looked at Millie, who was watching the exchange with morbid fascination. Gigi had recoiled a little in horror, and Didier sat in his chair, with a wry grin, and I instinctively knew he had heard all this before.
Inevitably, I had to ask, “How? How did he die?”, expecting to hear of a tragic farm accident or perhaps a relative dying in bed.
Louis turned to me, “My father killed him,” he replied, and waited for the next question. I felt the earth tilt slightly under my chair, a dread of knowledge hovering heavily in the warm air as a floorboard creaked in the summer heat above me. I wondered why on earth Louis had even started this conversation, but then lucidly realised it had begun with our platitudes about his wife’s death.
I think my mouth must have hung open too long, for Louis forestalled my next question as he added “My father did kill him legally,” as though that knowledge would ease the shock I was feeling.
I mentally did sums in my head, my brain working overtime with some wartime excuse, but the years did not add up and so I had to eventually answer, “I don’t understand?”, aware that the girls were watching us intently.
Louis sat forward and said, “My father woke me once, when I was six, and dressed me before dawn before taking me to Saintes in a cart and horse. It’s only two hours or so, as you know. He was dressed all in black, and he told me he was taking me to a lesson, one that he said would teach me much about life, and how to live a good life.”
He paused and took, a sip of water as all of us waited, wondering at the revelations.
“There was a man, found guilty of murder, and he was going to be publicly executed in Saintes, as it was the official execution location for the department. There were several of us in the cart, and my mother had not wanted me to go, but my father over-ruled her. I had heard of the guillotine, of course, and part of me was excited perhaps, but most of me was filled with dread when I found out where we were going. However, it was not until we were in Saintes, that I finally knew the whole truth, that my father was the assistant to the executioner and I was to be an official witness.”
There was a silence in the room, and we sat there, waiting for the final part of the story. I found myself quite lost for words, but Millie and Gigi’s eyes were round and bright with fascination.
Louis continued, “My father said what I would see that day would teach me to never do anything bad, to always be a good man, and he was right. I will never forget what I saw, and I still have nightmares today even, but it was a good lesson – I never stole anything in my life, I never hurt anyone with murderous intent, and I will die an honest man.” and he sat back with another thump and watched us all.
Didier broke the silence by nonchalantly reaching for the pastis bottle and saying, “Quelle leçon, Louis, eh?” and I felt Gigi’s hand reach for mine under the table.
“Wow,” said Millie, as she sat upright, “what a way to be taught a lesson,” and I mentally had an image of a small boy with eyes tightly closed against the horrors unfolding before him. Looking up, I saw Louis was watching me, a clear meaningful glance that seemed to both apologise and explain at the same time. I looked away to my glass of water and wondered how many children over the years had heard the same story and taken something good away from a tale of death, to serve them appropriately when needed.
Much later, when we got home, and we told the rest of the family of our afternoon, there was much consensus of agreement about the way lives should be led and I realised that a lesson really had been learnt, from a small old man in a tiny house down a dusty lane in a lost French hamlet; that life must be led fairly and honestly, so we might all wait for death with a clear mind in later life, as Louis was so obviously doing, a photo of his dear wife in one hand and a bowl of cheese snacks close by the other.
I saw Didier at our friend’s house last week, and he asked me with a wry smile, “Quite a story, eh? Did your children talk about it? Louis told me that story when I was a small boy, too, and I think he told every child he ever met; it certainly worked for me and everyone else I know from the village.”
“Oh yes,” I fervently replied, “I think we all learnt something!”
And it’s true, for we’re all still talking about it even now. No one will forget Louis’ tale in a hurry, for it is a story of right and wrong, but with additional impact, for we now know a man who once saw a guillotine at work.
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I have since found out that the execution Louis was witness to was one of the very last public executions in Saintes, even though France continued to use the guillotine until the 1970’s as a means of execution in prison.
Our French Oasis 
what a wonderful, wonderful story
Wow. It was a different, much rougher time, wasn’t it? I’ve never gotten a story like that, for sure, but it’s clear that even within living memory, folks viewed life and death with a colder eye than we do now. Great story.
I think they certainly did!
Powerful. Thank you for sharing this experience with us.
Thank you – I thought it was worth sharing too, for bad or for good
Wow! What a story! And such gorgeous photos as well.
Thank you Nancy! XX
Chilling, but what a life lesson.
Indeed, Eileen. Not sure it’s one i would recommend today but life was very different then for sure. 🙂
I loved this. It read like fiction, but was better! Goodness knows how many people in the world would have turned out better, had they heard this story when they were young ❤
Perhaps! It’s one comforting thought to take away from such a gruesome tale!
Is the death penalty really a deterrent? As a former prosecutor, I used to debate this with my colleagues from time to time. Perhaps it is, but only to those who have some capacity for clear thought and/or empathy. The truly sociopathic, incurably evil or criminally insane will torture and kill in spite of the existence of the death penalty. They can only be stopped by lack of opportunity.
I think you are totally correct there, Ellen. One just has to hope that a good number of people who might have become criminals or committed a criminal act were deterred. As you say, there would be no stopping the psychopaths of the world.
What a powerful story of an extraordinary experience – you certainly have a way with words.
Anne, thank you for the kind words yourself! XX
I truly did not see that coming. You did a beautiful job with this, and it could not have been easy even to make the choice to write the story. I remember an earlier post about this gentleman, by the way.
Hi Angela, I do not think I have written about this gentleman before, but that’s not important, though – I’m happy you enjoyed the tale, and I see your feelings about the ‘choice’ matched mine. I decided in the end it was a tale worth recounting…..it certainly had an effect on me!
Wow. What an impact. A life long and well lived, lessons learned early.
I have had encounters like that before — where you nod or smile or pass by often enough that a conversation or a gesture begins and a relationship of sorts is formed. But never before was a story so powerful, so poignant, so meaningful shared. I can only imagine your experience — which you told so beautifully and eloquently.
Sometimes the best friendships happen like that too. It’s unfortunate that one has to be slightly older before one can realise the benefits of chance encounters, and thus seek them out. I suspect a lot of youngsters today shy away from things like this, and miss out on so much. Thank you for your comments 🙂
That was quite astonishing. Everyone has a backstory; in this case a part of French history. Another example of – just another day in the life of the remarkable Hays family. Now, all I can say is WOW!! Life is truly stranger than fiction.
Ali xx
Oh, Ali – thank you – but then we do seem to have more than our fair share of surprises, I admit!
Susan. Reading your post was a profound experience, truly. I think Louis would be very pleased that you’ve shared this wisdom with so many. Thank you.
I love your posts and you write so beautifully. This is indeed a powerful story. Thank you for sharing!
Margianne – thank you for your comment, I’m glad you enjoyed it XX
My what a truly fascinating, inspiring and beautifully crafted story. Merci!
Happy you enjoyed it, Sandy!
What an interesting post. Thanks for sharing!
It was very interesting listening to it originally, too! Cheese straws and all!
I join in with my own ‘wow’ and ‘aaah’…. indeed, WHAT a story! I see, in front of my inner eye, the one sitting right next to my heart muscle, the many men (and women) going to wars, most of them not knowing what ‘hit them’ and the many who never came home again. I think of the children who witness war in all its cruelty, who are sitting in cages, separated from their parents, not knowing how their next days will unfold. And now I also shall think of Louis who really taught you a life-lesson…. No pastis and no cheese straws will erase that lesson ever. Knowing you and your family, I safely vouch for you being honest, good, helpful, and sincere people. I KNOW that you do many good deeds, that you are tearing yourselves in pieces to be the best possible parents, partners, human beings… so there is not that much of a lesson to be learnt by you.
My father – RIP Vätterli 🙂 – had to turn over 80 before he could tell me (as the only one of our largish family) of his experiences of WWII when he, as a Swiss citizen, was living in war-Germany …. that was a lesson for life too and we often felt it, without knowing WHY he was ‘impossible to understand’ in so many ways – he was formed by what he saw, experienced, couldn’t talk about! I do wish he could have told us all – and much earlier – we would have loved him even more, we would have had much more understanding and been way more generous towards him when a ‘mood’ took over.
A great post, thank you so mu!
How did Gigi fare? You must have at least 48hrs in each day to ‘manage’ it all…. 😉 Sending all my love and kisses, cuddles and dog biscuits your way. K
Wow I never expected a tale like that. Very very interesting. Thank you for sharing.
All I can say, is “Whoa!” what a shocker to hear such a tale. I didn’t know even that France continued to use such a death sentence until 1970. But for your children to hear such a tale….it does give food for thought.
Hi Nancy, my children thought it very provoking, and thankfully all admit they would hate to be a witness to an execution, even if they appreciate the lesson it would teach someone. I think, in this instance, we must be thankful we are not somewhere where such lessons are still on public display – the Middle East, for example. I suspect children there, and in particular Syria, are still subject to horrors beyond our imagination.
That was lovely and I’d be the one who our love to meet Louis and hear his tales. So glad to hear that your girls have patience for the elderly as so many do not these days. They don’t even want to learn or know about the history of anything which is such a shame. We can all learn so much from their experiences. Glad you were able to spend time with this gentleman…..and I do mean gentleman. Not too many of those around anymore either 🙂
You echo many of my feelings, Amy. Hospitality to strangers on one hand, and a stark admission on the other that might have given them nightmares but did not.
What I take from this most of all is Louis’ recanting of the tale to pretty much every child he ever meets, knowing that your sensibilities might be alarmed but forging ahead absolutely sure and certain, rightly, that the execution he witnessed and that ensured that he has never strayed from a righteous path is his to retell and ensure that the young are equipped to follow their own righteous paths. A powerful lesson he learned and it is quite wonderful that he has chosen to use that powerful lesson to the greater good of all children he meets. Really, Susan, a fantastic experience, if a little disconcerting for a parent, and one which none of you will ever forget. Nor I think those of us who have been able to share Louis’ tale through the power of your own words. Xx
Hello Osyth, fascinating but disconcerting INDEED! You are right on the button! I hope I have done the right thing telling it to you all, I sincerely hope I have not upset anyone….
I can’t imagine anyone was upset. It’s a raw and real tale and perfectly positions history being the greatest encyclopaedia we have for learning. When the history is told by the person who experienced it, then it is powerful and the lessons have a chance of sticking a whole life through ….
As a mother,I can’t imagine how his mother felt knowing her son had to endure that sight at the age of 6. It could have had the opposite effect. As a mother, grandmother and Gr.grandmother I have sat through the recent agonies of the Thai boys in the cave and can only wonder at the endurance of the human spirit. I am very happy that your children have the capacity to understand and take heed of this hard lesson. Extraordinary is the only way to describe your tale!
Margaret, I can imagine that in those times the man of the house was all impotent, perhaps. But I agree with your thoughts. It must have been hard on all, perhaps even the father himself.
Now that is quite a story and the lesson it conveys is one every child should learn. I am fascinated by the fact that he watched a public execution by guillotine, what an experience for a young boy. Thank you for sharing this story with us!
I’m not sure what sort of experience it was for him, Storki, but it certainly resonated long enough for us to hear of it some 80 years later, anyway!
A wonderful story that really touched me. Isn’t it amazing what is revealed once you get to know someone? Is this the same man to whom you (and one or more of your children?) brought something home-baked or home-grown, a year or so ago? When you first started telling Louis’ story, I thought it was related to WW II and the Occupation. But no, this public execution must have taken place about 1935. I can’t imagine a six-year-old being the official witness, but the lessons learned were carefully presented, and so worthwhile.
Thanks so much for sharing this great story!
A wonderful read. Thank you.
Goodness, thankfully times have changed since then, can you imagine taking a child to an execution these days? I’m so happy to hear your children like to spend time with older people and hear their stories. Like so many teenagers, when I started nursing aged 17, I seemed to think older folk were born that age, only to have a very valuable life lesson from one of my patients. The lady was in her eighties, bent double with arthritis, had cataracts on both eyes, and had just undergone surgery. One day she got her handbag from her locker, and took out a photo to show me. There she was aged 23, a dancer in the 1920’s in a very saucy costume, beautiful, tall and slim. I then realised everyone has a story to tell if we just listened. xxx
Wow! What an experience. I love old people like this — they add so much to life and the interest in living here.
What a good story–or encounter, I should say. I imagine you will get more stories as you visit. It is so interesting to hear people’s lives.
A fascinating story, well told. Thank you for sharing. I really enjoy reading your blog.
Wow! What a lesson! And a really good read. First lulled by a vicarious bicycle trip through the French countryside to quite a different experience-philosophical at that! Not sure I’d bring a child to see a man guillotined but here in the US I think we often make sure not to show “unpleasant” things. I often wondered if Americans saw the physical devastation caused by gun violence that perhaps they would be less likely to worry about their gun rights and more willing to limit things like assault weapons. but instead we hid the gory details. Great story
I put a link on my Facebook page to this article with some commentary. It is interesting to read the people’s comments. I can’t find a way to share those comments with you other than your going to my facebook page!
Very good story
What an amazing story and, as others have said, a very powerful life lesson for all.
Also, brava Gigi for such a good answer to his question.
not a good experience to teach children about life and death, good and bad, even that’s life how it is/was.
Many thanks for all if your wonderful stories and photos! I have been to France just once! I wanted to love it and I did! It was so beautiful, but in one month we bearly scrachted the surface. To live there would be a dream. Thankyou for sharing. If you you are ever in Tasmania come and share a wine with us! Mind how you go, (one of my sayings since I was small, from my grandmother,) . xx